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Ama Dablam expedition with Island peak |
The
normal
route to
climb
Ama
Dablam
is from
its
South-
West
ridge.
Ama
Dablam
is a
small
snowcapped
peak
lying in
the
Everest
region.
This
South –
West
ridge is
the
normal
and most
popular
route in
order to
ascend
the Mt.
Ama
Dablam.
In
addition,
an
expedition
to Ama
Dablam
is more
than
just a
climb.
It’s a
journey
into the
heart of
the
Himalayas.
Located
in the
Khumbu
valley
of
Nepal,
only 12
km from
the
summit
of Mount
Everest,
Ama
Dablam
demands
the
attention
of every
passer-by.
Soaring
ridgelines
and
super-steep
faces
guard
the
summit
from all
but the
experienced
climber.
From the
summit
you are
surrounded
by a
vista of
peaks
like no
other,
five of
the
highest
six
peaks in
the
world
are
clearly
visible.
The
first
ascent
(via the
SW
ridge)
of Ama
Dablam
was not
made
until
the mid
60’s by
a strong
NZ/USA
team.
The
north
ridge
fell to
a
talented
French
team as
late as
1979. In
recent
years
many
parties
have
successfully
climbed
the
mountain,
with
nearly
all
ascents
via the
original
SW ridge
route.
Ama
Dablam
is
considered
to be
the
technical
&
difficult
&
challenging
peak for
all the
mountaineers.
This
unforgettable
climb in
the
Khumbu
region
of Nepal
start/end
with the
Lukla.
It
involves
a
cultural
&
exciting
trek up
to the
base
camp &
also
involves
technical
rock,
snow and
ice
climbing
and
stunning
panoramic
summit
views of
world’s
highest
& famous
mountains.
Named
"Island
Peak" in
1952 due
to its
striking
resemblance
to a
island
on a sea
of ice,
this
mountain
was
renamed
"Imje
Tse" in
the
early
80s. Its
original
name is
more
often
used,
however.
First
climbed
by a
team
preparing
for an
Everest
ascent
in 1953,
Island
Peak has
an
impressive,
highly
glaciated
West
Face
which
rises
from the
Lhotse
Glacier.
In fact,
the
mountain
extends
from the
South
Ridge of
Lhotse
Shar and
is
separated
only by
a small
col.
Above
this gap
is the
ridge
leading
to
summit.
From
base
camp, we
will
ascend a
steep,
grassy
slope
and
small
rocky
steps to
high
camp. It
is
necessary
to climb
a steep,
exposed
300'
snow and
ice ramp
to the
summit
ridge;
fixed
ropes
will be
used at
this
point in
an
otherwise
non-technical
snow
climb.
We will
negotiate
a final
tricky
snow
pitch
before
reaching
the
summit.
Again,
stunning
views of
the
surrounding
mountains
can be
seen
from the
peak,
including
Nuptse,
Lhotse,
Cho Polu,
Makalu,
Ama
Dablam
and
Baruntse. |
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Facts
OF
EXPEDITION |
Duration :
35 days
Trek Type :
Camping House
Max. Altitude :
6856 m .
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Minimum Pax : 1+
Mode Of Travel : Flight
Grade :
Strenuous
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Itinerary
In
Details |
Day
01 :
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Arrival at
Kathmandu
International
Airport and
transfer to
hotel. Stay
overnight at
hotel in
Kathmandu.
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Day
02 :
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Preparation day
in Kathmandu.
Stay overnight
at hotel in
Kathmandu.
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Day
03 :
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Fly from
Kathmandu to
Lukla which
takes
approximately 30
minutes and trek
to Phakding.
Stay overnight
at lodge in
Phakding. Early
in the morning
you will be
driven from
hotel to
Kathmandu
airport, after
30 minutes
spectacular
flight you will
land to Lukla
airport
(2800m.).You
begin your trek
to Phakding
(2652m.) and you
walk for about 2
and half to 3
hrs. While
trekking, you
head up the Dudh
Koshi Valley on
a well-marked
trail to
Phakding
(2652m.)
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Day
04 :
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Trek from
Phakding to
Namche Bazaar
(3440 m.) which
takes about 5 to
5 and half
hours. Stay
overnight at
lodge in Namche
Bazaar. This day
you trek and
cross the river
on high
suspension
bridges. Beyond
Monjo(2800m.) is
the entrance to
the Sagarmatha
National Park
which was set-up
in order to
protect and
preserve this
fragile mountain
environment. You
then ascend
quite steeply to
Namche and along
the way, if the
weather is
clear, catch a
first glimpse of
Mt Everest in
the distance.
You can also
enjoy the view
of Mt. Kusum
Kangaru,
Thamserku, Konde-Ri,
Tawache peak.
You can also
visit some of
the village
monasteries on
the way of
trekking to
Namche Bazaar
(3440 m.).
Namche is the
main trading
village in the
Khumbu region
and holds a busy
Saturday market.
There is set a
meeting place
for the Hindu
traders from the
lowlands and the
Tibetan yak
caravans that
have reached
there by
crossing the
glaciated Nangpa
La.
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Day
05 :
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Rest at Namche
Bazar for
acclimatization
and excursion
around the
places. Stay
overnight at
lodge in Namche
Bazaar. Namche
is tucked away
between two
ridges amidst
the giant peaks
of the Khumbu
and has an
abundance of
lodges, tea
shops and
souvenir shops
as well as a
magnificent
outlook. It is
an ideal place
to spend a rest
day for
acclimatization
to the high
altitude before
heading off
towards
Tyangboche. For
the
acclimatization
you walk upto
Khunde Hospital
which was set-up
by Sir Edmund
Hillary, or a
one hour walk up
to the
Syangboche
(3800m.) where
Everest View
Hotel is
situated above
Namche for the
outstanding view
of Everest,
Nuptse, Lhotse,
Ama Dablam,
Thamserku and
Kusum Kangaru.
There are also
good views from
the National
Park Centre and
Museum just
above the town.
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Day
06:
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Trek from Namche
Bazaar to
Tyangboche (3850
m.) and it takes
almost 5 hours.
Stay overnight
at lodge in
Tyangboche. From
Namche, the
trail contours
around the side
of the valley,
high above the
Dudh Kosi. Now
you have a
glimpse of first
really good
views of the
great peaks of
the Khumbu
including Mt
Everest, Nuptse,
Lhotse, Ama
Dablam,
Thamserku and
Kusum Kangaru.
Passing by
several villages
and numerous tea
shops, the trail
descends steeply
to a bridge over
the river Dudh
Koshi at Phunki
Tenga
(3250m.).The
village has an
excellent place
for lunch and
you can take a
short rest
before making
the steep climb
to Tyangboche.
Although
exhausting due
to the zigzag
path, the trek
has numerous
attractions like
rhododendron
bushes,
beautiful birds
chirping and
superb mountain
scenery making
your trek
exciting.
Tyangboche is
famous for its
legendary
monastery, the
largest in the
Khumbu region.
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Day
07 :
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Trek from
Tyangboche to
Dingboche
(4350m.) which
takes about 4
and half hours
to 5 hours. You
gradually
descend through
a forest, cross
the Imja Khola
and climb
steadily up to
the village of
Pangboche. This
is directly
opposite to Ama
Dablam [6,856
m], and has
exceptional
views of the
mountain, with
the Gompa, Mani
walls and
scattered pine
trees in the
foreground. As
you gradually
ascend, you do
find thick
forests as the
trail is full of
thorny and
juniper bushes.
A further two
and half hour’s
walk brings us
to Dingboche.
Here you can see
Sherpa people
working hard in
the agricultural
farm.
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Day
08 :
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Rest at
Dingboche for
acclimatization
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Day
09 :
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Trek from
Dingboche
(4350m.) to
Chhukung
(4730m.) And it
takes about 2
and half hours.
The trail
gradually
ascends up to
the Chhukung. On
the way, you can
see summer huts
made especially
for keeping the
livestock’s in
summer time.
Along this, you
enjoy the
beautiful
mountain views
in and around
the valley.
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Day 10 :
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Trek from
Chhukung to
Island Peak Base
Camp (5087m) and
it takes about
three hours. You
trek through
gradual ascent
path all the way
to Base Camp. On
the way you can
enjoy the
panoramic views
of Ama Dablam,
Lhotse, Nuptse,
Island Peak and
many others.
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Day
11 :
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Set the high
camp.
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Day
12 :
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Climb the Island
peak and back to
base camp.
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Day
13 :
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Trek from Base
camp to
Pangboche. After
descending along
the trail to
Chhukung, we
continue on to
Dingboche for
lunch. It is
then another
couple of hours
to the lovely
village of
Pangboche where
we'll camp for
the night.
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Day
14 :
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Rest at
Pangboche.
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Day
15 :
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Trek from
Pangboche to Ama
Dablam Base
Camp. Lunch at
Pangboche and
continue trek to
Base camp,
Sherpa staff
will set the
base camp &
Expedition
members take
relax.
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Day 16 :
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Base Camp, Camp
I, Camp II,
Summit to the
top. You have
full 17 days to
make the summit
on the top of Mt
Ama Dablam with
support of our
experienced
climbing sherpa.
Base camp (4600
m): Situated on
a large grassy
meadow with a
wonderful views.
To yak camp
(5400 m): We use
yaks to carry
most of our
equipment for
this section,
which saves us
three to fours
hours of heavy
work. There is a
rough track over
very rocky
terrain, which
the yaks and we
use.
To camp I (5800
m): Your first
real camp is
only one and
half hours walk
above Yak camp.
This section is
marked by rock
cairns and
involves boulder
hopping and some
easy scrambling.
You sometimes
fix a couple of
sections with
rope to be used
as a handrail.
Camp I to Camp
II (6000 m): Now
you are really
climbing. This
section of the
route is usually
rock climbing
only, depending
on the season.
The granite is
high quality and
the moves fun,
challenging and
exposed but
“do-able”. You
follow a narrow
ridge, switching
back and forth
on each side of
the ridge. This
is the hardest
rock climbing of
the entire
route. In places
the exposure is
extreme and you
are very
thankful of the
fixed ropes in
place. Whilst it
is generally
easier not to
pull on the
ropes all the
time if you are
finding the
going getting a
bit too hard you
can just rest on
the fixed rope.
You can also use
your jumar to
help you over
the odd spot of
difficulties.
Most of the
climbing on this
section is
traversing on
rock, so good
rock climbing
skills will help
you move
efficiently and
quickly over
this terrain.
Camp II:
Situated on top
of the Yellow
Tower on a
narrow platform
this camp site
is rather
exposed and has
fantastic views.
If you dropped
your cup from
here it would
probably land in
base camp!
Camp II to Camp
III (6300m): Now
for the hardest
snow and ice
pitches of the
route. We follow
a system of
steep snow and
ice gullies up
to join a
feature called
the Mushroom
Ridge. Whilst
the ridge itself
is not as
technical as the
gullies leading
up to it, the
exposure here is
palpable. It is
a narrow, windy,
snow
mushroom-like
ridge with giant
Himalayan peaks
in the
background. This
feature leads us
up onto a small
plateau at 6300
m, which serves
the purpose of
camp three.
Camp III: A cold
and exposed
position is the
start of your
summit push. The
Sherpas will
often use a full
climbing rope to
tie our tents
down as the
natural shape of
the mountain can
at times
unfortunately
funnel the wind
to this
location. It is
however the only
safe flat piece
of real estate
within range of
the summit.
Summit day: The
initial route is
to the right of
the huge
“dablam” (ice
cliff), up a
moderately steep
slope, which is
often iced. Once
past this
feature we move
toward the
centre of the
face. The angle
eases slightly
and a couple of
tough hours
later we emerge
on the summit
(6856 m). The
summit is the
size of a tennis
court and allows
us to move
around and take
pictures. Five
of the world’s
six highest
peaks are
clearly visible,
with many other
7000m and lesser
peaks filling
the gaps.
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Day 30 :
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Trek from Ama
Dablam Base camp
to Namche. Stay
overnight at
lodge.
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Day 31 :
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Trek from Namche
Bazaar to
Phakding
(2652m.) and it
takes about four
hours. Stay
overnight at
lodge. The
trails descend
steeply for
early one and
half hours.
After that, the
path has small
ups and down to
Phakding through
Monjo.
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Day 32 :
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Trek from
Phakding to
Lukla (2886m)
and it takes
about three
hours. Stay
overnight at
lodge. Your
final day's
trekking follows
the Dudh Kosi
back down to
Lukla.
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Day 33 :
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Fly from Lukla
to Kathmandu and
transfer to
hotel. Stay
overnight at
hotel in
Kathmandu.
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Day 34 :
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Rest day in
Kathmandu. Stay
overnight at
hotel in
Kathmandu.
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Day 35 :
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Fly out from
Kathmandu.
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